How to Set Up Camp at an RV Site: Leveling, Hookups, and Stabilization

Before cutting the engine, walk the pad briefly. Note the slope direction, any low-hanging branches that could hit slides or vents, and where the hookup pedestal and sewer inlet are located. Pull forward so your utility connections reach comfortably - most sites place the pedestal at the rear driver's side. For towables, take your time backing in; a spotter using agreed hand signals reduces stress and avoids costly repositions.

With the RV in its final position and the parking brake set (on motorhomes), place chocks snugly against both sides of at least one drive axle wheel - front and rear faces. For towables, chock immediately after unhitching; never rely on the tongue jack alone to hold the trailer. Chocks should sit flush on a hard surface; on dirt or gravel, place a board underneath to prevent them from digging in and losing grip.

Side-to-side (lateral) level must come first. Use your bubble level or in-dash display to determine which side is low, then drive or back the low-side tires onto stacked leveling blocks. Recheck the level and add or remove blocks as needed. Automatic leveling systems handle this electronically - follow your rig's manufacturer procedure, as sequences vary. Aim for within one degree of level; refrigerators using absorption cooling require near-perfect lateral level to function correctly long-term.

Once the rig is laterally level, adjust pitch (front-to-back). On towables, crank the tongue jack up or down. On motorhomes with front or rear auto-leveling jacks, use the system's controls. Check your level again after each adjustment - lateral and pitch interact slightly. Most manufacturers recommend a very slight nose-down pitch (roughly half a bubble low in front) to encourage condensate drainage, but confirm this against your owner's manual.

Stabilizer jacks are not leveling jacks - they touch the ground to reduce bounce and sway, not to bear the rig's full weight. Lower corner jacks or rear stabilizers until they make firm contact with the ground; use stabilizer pads under the feet to spread load and prevent sinking on soft surfaces. Do not crank them until the rig lifts - you risk bending the jack or damaging the frame.

Attach a water pressure regulator to the campground spigot first - campground pressure can exceed 80 PSI and damage your RV's plumbing, which is typically rated for 45-65 PSI. Thread your drinking-water hose onto the regulator, then connect the other end to your RV's city water inlet. Turn on the spigot slowly and check both ends for leaks. If you plan to use your onboard tank instead, fill it from the spigot using the gravity fill port rather than pressurizing the city inlet.

Plug your surge protector or EMS into the campground pedestal first - before connecting it to your RV. This lets the device verify the pedestal's wiring for faults (reverse polarity, open ground) before power flows to your rig. Once the EMS shows a green light or clear status, connect the RV end. If the pedestal's amperage doesn't match your rig's inlet, use the appropriate adapter (e.g., 30-to-50 amp). For rigs without an EMS, at minimum use a basic surge protector.

Put on gloves before handling any sewer equipment. Attach the bayonet fitting of your sewer hose firmly to your RV's drain outlet - the gray and black tank valves should be closed at this point. Run the hose downhill to the site's sewer inlet and secure it with the inlet's rubber collar or a donut seal to contain odors and splashback. Use a sewer hose support to maintain a continuous downhill slope; a sagging hose traps solids. Keep tank valves closed until you're ready to dump - never leave the black tank valve open, as liquid drains away and solids accumulate into a difficult-to-clear blockage.